Ferran
4. Sep 2024 ∼ 10 min. read

Jökulsárgljúfur is a giant canyon that carves through Iceland’s northern region, from the Highlands all the way to the coast. Created through extensive glacial floods, released after eruptions underneath Vatnajökull glacier, this park that was once a stand along nature reserve is now a part of the giant Vatnajökull National Park, the largest national park in Europe.  

Look on a map, and you’ll see that the protected part of Jökulsárgljúfur Canyon doesn’t share any boundaries with the larger section of park, which covers the glacier, huge swathes of the Highlands, and the lowland areas around the southeast including Skaftafell and the Glacier Lagoon. Still, thanks to its creation from the glacier, it was included as a part of the national park, telling the story of the fascinating and powerful forces of nature at play in Iceland.  

In this guide to the Jökulsárgljúfur region, we’re going to cover the history and background of Jökulsárgljúfur, talk about the geological features you can see, the main natural attractions, and some other tips for visiting the area with your campervan.   

History and Background of Jökulsárgljúfur Canyon 

Jökulsárgljúfur is in the north of Iceland, a 25-kilometre-long canyon that’s home to the river Jökulsá á Fjöllum. As a part of the larger Vatnajökull National Park, the creation of Jökulsárgljúfur is directly tied with this glacial river and the surrounding volcanic systems. In 1973, the area was designated a national preservation area due to its unique geological and cultural importance. Then, in 2008, it was integrated into the larger Vatnajökull National Park, despite not sharing any borders with the rest of the park.  

The landscapes you can see when visiting Jökulsárgljúfur offer a glimpse into Iceland’s volcanic power. The canyon was primarily carved by the Jökulsá á Fjöllum river, aided by catastrophic glacial floods thanks to eruptions occurring underneath the glacier Vatnajökull. These floods, among the most powerful since the Ice Age, each sent a huge amount of water and power flowing through the canyon, blasting out the bedrock to create what you see today.  

The Geological Features of Jökulsárgljúfur  

The Waterfalls 

One of the biggest draws for people visiting Jökulsárgljúfur are the powerful waterfalls, dropping into the canyon over tall cliffs created by glacial floods. Dettifoss is the star of the show, considered the most powerful waterfall in Europe when it’s at full force. But that’s not all; also, in the canyon you can admire plenty of other waterfalls, including Selfoss and Hafragilsfoss, both just as alluring as Dettifoss. And these are just the waterfalls you can see with a campervan; take to hiking along the canyon’s edge and you will discover plenty more.  

Rock Formations 

Rocks – boring right? Not in Iceland, and definitely not in Jökulsárgljúfur. This canyon is renowned for some extraordinary rock formations, particularly in the Hljóðaklettar area, about halfway between Dettifoss and Ásbyrgi. Here you can see everything from volcanic plugs to intricate basalt columns, all of it twisted into fascinating shapes thanks again to those powerful glacial floods. To give you a better idea, the early Icelanders gave names to these rock formations, and you can see Kastalinn (the Castle), Tröllið (the Troll), and Kirkjan (the Church), all giving you hints to what they might resemble.  

The Canyon Structure 

Finally, geology geeks will also love the Jökulsárgljúfur canyon itself. Stretching over 25 kilometers long and up to 500 meters wide, the canyon's walls rise about 100 meters, displaying a cross-section of Iceland’s turbulent past. Plus, it’s generally just an awesome canyon. 

The Main Attractions in Jökulsárgljúfur  

Now that we’ve got the geology out of the way, let’s get into the nitty gritty. Here are the destinations you should have on your itinerary when exploring Jökulsárgljúfur in your campervan.  

Dettifoss 

Dettifoss is a huge highlight of Jökulsárgljúfur, and probably its most-visited destination. This is Europe’s most powerful waterfall, 100 metres wide and plunging 45 metres down to the bottom of the canyon. The thunderous roar is impressive, and when it’s at its most powerful, on average, Dettifoss flows at around 193 cubic meters per second. However, during peak flow periods, this can increase significantly, with estimates ranging from 200 to 500 m³/s or even more during exceptionally heavy rainfall or rapid glacial melt. To put this into perspective, at its peak flow, Dettifoss can discharge enough water to fill several Olympic-sized swimming pools every minute.  

Selfoss 

Just about 2 km upstream from Dettifoss, Selfoss offers a contrasting experience with its wide, horseshoe-shaped cascade. Although not as powerful as Dettifoss, Selfoss is renowned for its scenic beauty, characterized by a series of smaller waterfalls that collectively create a stunning visual effect. The waterfall spans approximately 100 meters in width and has a drop of around 11 meters, making it a picturesque spot for photography and nature appreciation. 

Hafragilsfoss 

Located approximately 1 km downstream from Dettifoss, Hafragilsfoss is another impressive waterfall in the park. With a drop of about 27 meters and a width of 90 meters, this waterfall is surrounded by steep cliffs that offer breathtaking views of the Jökulsárgljúfur canyon. The viewpoint on the east side provides a fantastic perspective to appreciate the scale and beauty of Hafragilsfoss amidst the rugged canyon environment, although the road  

Hljóðaklettur 

Hljóðaklettur is a remarkable area featuring unique rock formations and volcanic plugs that has already been mentioned above. These formations are a result of ancient volcanic activity and are situated right next to a low-lying part of the canyon. There are some easy-going hiking trails here through the area, letting you see the rock formations called 'the Castle', 'the Troll', and 'the Church', each named for their distinctive shapes. Then, there’s also the Echo Rocks, where you can stand in a spot enjoy some unique echoing acoustics in a basalt cave. A longer hiking trail heads north along the canyon towards a place called Rauðhólar, where a striking black and red sand volcano rises on the edge of Jökulsárgljúfur.  

Ásbyrgi Canyon 

Ásbyrgi Canyon anchors the northern tip of Jökulsárgljúfur, a stunning horse-shoe shaped canyon believed to have been created in just a matter of days by glacial floods. Considered its size, it’s an impressive feat. The canyon is unique in Iceland, filled with greenery and with a beautiful small forest at its base. The canyon walls reach up to 100 metres tall at the deepest point, and in summer, are a popular nesting spot for the birds called Fulmars. The entire place is beautiful and peaceful, and there are some great hiking trails that lead up along the canyon walls.  

Campervan Travel Tips for Jökulsárgljúfur Canyon 

Road 864 vs. 862  

A quick look at Jökulsárgljúfur on the map and you’ll see that there’s one road on either side of the canyon: one on the east side (864) and one on the west side (862). So, which one should you take?  

Road 862 is the safest bet, now paved almost the entire way from where it begins on the ring road to where it finishes up next to Ásbyrgi Canyon. There are clearly marked parking areas for each of the main sights and good public restrooms as well.  

Road 864 is a bit more adventurous, a rough gravel road that requires a lot of care and attention while driving. You can also get great views of Dettifoss via this road, but you won’t be able to stop at the Hjlóðaklettur area.  

Camping in Jökulsárgljúfur  

There’s really only one place to set up for a night with a campervan, and that’s at the Ásbyrgi Campsite. Luckily, it’s run by the national park, so the facilities are fantastic – and it goes without saying that camping next to the towering canyon walls is a wonderful place to spend the night. The campsite is only open during the warmer months (from mid-May to end of September), and there are showers, washing machines, dryers, and an indoor kitchen area.  

There is also a campsite at Hjlóðaklettur, but it’s designated as a tent-only campsite; no campervans allowed.  

Best Time to Visit Jökulsárgljúfur  

In our opinion, the best time to visit Jökulsárgljúfur Canyon is mid-to-late June. This is the time when the roads are most likely open, hiking trails are clear of snow, but the major crowds of July and August haven’t arrived. There are also less people at the campsite during this time, although it starts to get busier toward the end of the month.  

This is of course during the Spring, when the winter has finally thawed to reveal the lush greenery contrasted with the fascinating rock formations throughout the canyon. 

Summer in the canyon is another obvious time to visit, generally thanks to the stable weather at the time and plenty of daylight for exploring.  During July and August, every path is open, the flora is in full bloom, and the fauna is most active. It’s the peak season for camping though, so expect the Ásbyrgi Campsite to be busier as well.  

Autumn is another great time to visit Jökulsárgljúfur. The colour change that occurs is most striking at Ásbyrgi, but you can see it at several other destinations throughout the canyon as well. The summer crowds have left, but it’s likely that the weather is still relatively mild and calm, allowing you to explore with ease. Come September, there’s also a chance to spot the northern lights.  

Winter transforms Jökulsárgljúfur Canyon into a silent, snowy wonderland. The stark contrast of white snow against the dark basalt cliffs creates a mesmerizing landscape. However, access is limited, with roads becoming quickly impassable thanks to heavy snows.  

Conclusion 

In our mind, Jökulsárgljúfur Canyon is a wonderful destination to visit in Iceland – especially if you venture along the whole length of the canyon and not just duck in and out to see Dettifoss. The Ásbyrgi Campsite is also widely considered one of the top spots in Iceland to park your campervan, so we would always recommend staying there if possible.  

FAQs 

Does it Cost Anything to Visit Jökulsárgljúfur Canyon? 

Entry to the sights at Jökulsárgljúfur are completely free, with no parking fees at any of the major sights either.  

Should I take road 862 or 864 to Dettifoss? 

We recommend taking Road 862, as it’s paved and easy to drive. Road 864 is a bit more challenging, but can also be an option, especially if you’ve rented a 4x4 campervan.  

Is Jökulsárgljúfur a National Park?   

Jökulsárgljúfur is a part of the larger Vatnajökull National Park, the largest national park in Europe. Even though it doesn’t share borders with the rest of the park, it’s a part of it because the landscapes of Jökulsárgljúfur were directly created thanks to the volcanic activity and glacial floods stemming from Vatnajökull glacier.  

Can I hike from Dettifoss to Ásbyrgi Canyon?  

Yes, there is a hiking trail linking Dettifoss with Ásbyrgi Canyon. However, since it’s a long-distance trek that usually takes 2 days, the logistics of doing it with a campervan can be difficult.