Ferran
2. Sep 2024 ∼ 10 min. read

A Guide to Exploring Kerlingarfjöll in the Icelandic Highlands 

Kerlingarfjöll is one of the most tempting destinations to visit in the Icelandic Highlands. Offering a blend of geothermal valleys and multi-colored mountains, the serene natural beauty on show here is considered as good as – or even better than – Landmannalaugar.  

Steaming valleys and belching mud pots, bright orange mountains contrasted by peaks of snow and bright green areas of moss and lichen by the riverbanks. This is Kerlingarfjöll, an alien-like world of mountains and ravines, where the geothermal power continues to color the landscape in vibrant hues.  

Like most other destinations in Iceland, to get a great understanding of the Kerlingarfjöll area, exploring on foot is your best bet. There are some seriously great trails to take you through the area, but before we get to that, we’ll cover how exactly you can get to Kerlingarfjöll and where you can stay overnight in a campervan. Let’s go.  

How to Get to Kerlingarfjöll 

With a 4x4 Campervan 

Like all destinations in the Icelandic Highlands, you’ll need a 4x4 to get to Kerlingarfjöll. The F-Roads that lead to the area are rough, and it’s illegal to take any other type of vehicle there. The F-roads also only open in the summer since the high plateau of the Icelandic Highlands is the last place to thaw out from the winter and become accessible for travel.  

The area is accessible via the F35, also known as the Kjölur Route, a historic road that connects the north and south of Iceland. It’s a scenic but rough trail, especially as you get closer to Kerlingarfjöll. The good news is that there are no river crossings to tackle, making this one of the easier destinations in the Icelandic Highlands to reach. The drive from Reykjavík takes about 3.5 hours, covering around 200 kilometers.  

Book your 4x4 campervan today. 

The Bus 

During summer (July 1–September 30) the Highland Base also operates a bus to their accommodation. It links Reykjavik with the Highland Base, but also stops off at Gullfoss, meaning those with a campervan that can’t drive on the F-roads can also visit the area for a day and even stay overnight.  

Camping and Accommodation Options in Kerlingarfjöll 

Like other Highland destinations in Iceland, Kerlingarfjöll has a variety of accommodation options available for you to choose from. It all revolves around the Kerlingarfjöll Highland Base, a high-end adventure resort that was recently completely refurbished. Offering everything from hotel rooms and private chalets to a campsite, there’s something here no matter your budget or travel style.  

Kerlingarfjöll Campsite  

The campsite at Kerlingarfjöll has had some growing pains in recent years as the hotel was being built but is now fully ready and available. Located by the river, it comes with access to the nearby service house, a brand-new structure with hot showers, toilets, and a kitchen inside, as well as an outdoor grill if you’re looking to barbecue after a day on the trails.  

The campsite is open from June 15 to September 30, and you must book your spot ahead of time. It costs 3,000 ISK per adult, and 2,000 ISK for children aged 12–16. You should also expect to pay the overnight tax of 333 ISK.  

The Highland Base 

1. Highland Base Hotel: The main hotel at the Highland Base is a luxurious affair, completely refurbished for the 2024 summer season. Expect luxurious rooms with all the modern comforts you need, and complimentary access to the new Highland Baths.  

1. Highland Base Lodges: Separate from the hotel are the Highland Base Lodges, which are a small hut that cater to 2–4 people. These lodges also come with complimentary access to the Highland Baths.  

1. Highland Base Hostel: A 20-room hostel which has been here for an age, this has also been refurbished with all the modern comforts. Although don’t expect this to be a hostel in the modern sense; it offers either twin rooms or family accommodation (2 adults and 2 children) only, no shared dorms.  

1. Highland Base Huts: Private huts that cater for 2 people all the way up to 15, with access to the campsite facilities.  

Top Hiking Trails in Kerlingarfjöll 

Now that you’ve got your accommodation sorted, it’s time to start looking at the hiking trails. There’s a plethora of different hikes available that cater to various levels of experience and endurance.  

There are two primary areas to begin your hikes from: The Highland Base, or the area of Hveradalir, which is the main highlight of Kerlingarfjöll and located 3km down the road from the hotel. 

Hiking Trails from the Highland Base & Campsite: 

1. Ásgarðsfjall Mountain 

Time: 2 hours return 
Distance: 2.5 kilometers 
Skill & Fitness Level: Easy. Suitable for all levels. 

Located above the Highland Resort, the Ásgarðsfjall Mountain is an easy and straightforward hike, offering stunning views over the entire area.  

1. The Kerlingarfjöll Hot Spring 

Time: 1.5 hours return 
Distance: 1.5 kilometers  
Skill & Fitness Level: Easy. Suitable for all levels. 

An easy trail leads from the Highland Resort alongside the riverbank. Simple and well-signed, at the end you’ll find a warm hot spring for a soak, so don’t forget your swimwear and a towel.  

1. From the Highland Base to Hveradalir 

Time: 1.5–2 hours one way. 
Distance: 5 kilometers  
Skill & Fitness Level: Moderate. Suitable for fit travelers. 

You can also hike a trail from the Highland Resort to the Hveradalir area, which is the major highlight of visiting Kerlingarfjöll. It goes over some small mountainous area, so there are some difficulties along the way meaning that fit travelers should only undertake this hike. Once you’ve arrived at Hveradalir, you should also budget another 2–3 hours of hiking around, so it can be a big day on the trails.  

Hiking Trails in Hveradalir 

Drive past the Highland Resort and in 3km you’ll come across the main parking area for Hveradalir, offering you easy access to the biggest highlight of the Kerlingarfjöll region.  

1. Hveradalir Geothermal Area Loop 

Time: 1–3 hours return. 
Distance: 3–5 kilometers  
Skill & Fitness Level: Moderate. Plenty of stairs make it suitable for fit travelers. 

The most obvious hiking trail to tackle while in Kerlingarfjöll is a loop around the Hveradalir geothermal area. This is the place where you’ll find the rust-colored mountains and steaming geothermal valleys, with bright minerals in the earth right next to belching mud pots. Stairs climb the spines of the mountains and hills, and it’s an easy place to spend at least 2 hours here. There’s a loop you can do over the mountains and around the entire area.  

1. Snækollur 

Time: 4 hours return. 
Distance: 5 kilometers  
Skill & Fitness Level: Moderate to difficult. Steep trail and often slippery.  

The highest summit in the area, the views from the peak of Snækollur are out-of-this-world. You can hike here from Hveradalir, but the trail isn’t marked very well. Instead, it’s recommended to begin and end from a different parking area called Fannborg. To get here, you’ll take a detour to the left a couple of hundred meters before you reach the main parking area for Hveradalir.  

1. Hverabotn  

Time: 4–5 hours return. 
Distance: 6 kilometers return from the Highland Base; 16 kilometers return from Hveradalir. 
Skill & Fitness Level: Moderate to difficult.  

Hverabotn is another geothermal area like Hveradalir, although not as well-known; and thus, less crowded in summer. To hike here you can depart from either the Hveradalir parking area or the Highland Base.  

1. Skeljafell  

Time: 4–5 hours return. 
Distance: 12 kilometers return.  
Skill & Fitness Level: Moderate to difficult.  

From an entirely different parking area, you can also access the trailhead to ascend the mountain Skeljafell. Along the way, you’ll also pass by a basalt landmark called Kerling – the name from which the entire area comes from.  

There are even more hiking trails to choose from in Kerlingarfjöll, most of which offer a combination of the trails listed above as well as some more lofty peaks in the area. For more information on these trails, check in at the Highland Base before making your way to Hveradalir.  

Looking for more info on the Icelandic Highlands? Check out our guide to Landmannalaugar here.

The History of Kerlingarfjöll  

The area of Kerlingarfjöll also has an interesting history for travel in Iceland. In 1961, it became a popular spot for Icelanders to vacation in the summer, the snowy peaks providing some excellent skiing conditions. To cater to the growing number of enthusiasts, ski lifts were installed, and existing cabin facilities were upgraded to include dormitories and dining areas for ski students. Each year, from June to August, thousands of young Icelanders refined their skiing abilities at Kerlingarfjöll's seasonal ski school. 

As time went on, the diminishing snowfields forced the ski school to close, but this in turn meant that it became a popular spot for outdoor adventure. Improved trails, bridges, and signs began to pop up, and the aging accommodation options underwent renovations, eventually reopening as the Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort. This spot operated as a hub for hikers and adventurers until 2020, when it underwent another refurbishment and rebranding as the Highland Base.  

Conclusion 

Words can only do this destination so much justice – until you visit Kerlingarfjöll for yourself you won’t really know how incredible this place is. The hiking here is breathtaking, and quite often it’s the favorite area of returning customers.  

Convinced? Book your 4x4 campervan for the summer season today.  

FAQs 

What is Kerlingarfjöll?  

Kerlingarfjöll is the name given to the large area of geothermal mountains and valleys in the central Icelandic Highlands. Within Kerlingarfjöll there are several points of interest, including the Highland Base, and Hveradalir geothermal area – not to be confused with Hveravellir, which is another geothermal area along the F35 about 1 hour from Kerlingarfjöll.  

The major highlight of visiting Kerlingarfjöll is hiking in Hveradalir, where you’ll see the rust-colored mountains, steaming geothermal valleys, and boiling hot springs.  

How do you get to Kerlingarfjöll? 

During the summer, you can reach Kerlingarfjöll in a 4x4 campervan. To get there, you’ll take F35, which runs from Gullfoss to Blönduós, and then take a short detour along F347. 

Is there a bus to Kerlingarfjöll in Iceland?  

Yes, the Highland Base operate a bus during the summer between Reykjavik and the hotel, with a stop at Gullfoss. The bus runs between July 1 and September 30. 

When do the roads to Kerlingarfjöll open? 

The earliest opening date for the F35 road (from Gullfoss to Hveravellir) is the 24th of May. The latest it opens is on the 15th of June, so the median opening date is the 8th of June.  

Can you bathe in the hot springs at Kerlingarfjöll? 

Yes, there is a hot spring at Kerlingarfjöll where you can bathe (see information above). However, bathing is not allowed in the Hveradalir geothermal area due to the hot temperatures.